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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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few York System 



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Invented by 



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Entered According to Act of Congress, in the year 1886, by Theodore Thorp, in the office of the 
Libarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. 



CAUTION.— NOTICE. 



s&&i OF C0J( 






The Public are hereby notified that any infringement of 
this System will be promptly prosecuted in 
the United States Courts. 




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A SYSTEM 

FOR 



Cutting Ladies' Garments, 



INVENTED BY 



«J THEODORE TH0RP>> 



This System consists of Instruction and Measure Books, Waist 
Scales, Square, Patterns and Sleeve Mode. 



4-PRICE LIST.-^ 

ONE SYSTEM COMPLETE WITH INSTRUCTIONS, $25.00 

REMITTANCES 

Should be made by Draft, Check, Post Office Money Order or Registered 
Letter. Money sent in unregistered letters is at the sender's risk. In or- 
dering be particular in writing the name of Town, County and State ; also, 

* sign your name in a plain hand. 

— All communications should be addressed to / 

THEODORE THORP, 

242 Bleecker Street, NEW YORK, N. Y. 



/* 



In the near future Mr. Thorp will open an establichment in New York, 
and the exact date will be published in " Harpers Bazar." 

Dressmakers are cordially invited to call, as he will keep on hand a 
choice selection of Imported Fashion Magazines, Paper Patterns, Etc , 
and will also conduct a PURCHASING AGENCY that Dressmakers can 
positively depend upon. 



F 



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Directions for Measurements. 



Tie a string around the waist and roll it down, which will indicate the 
natural length of the back. 

LENGTH OF BACK— From the prominent neck bone at the back of 
the neck to the* string. 

UNDER ARM — Under the arm, high up and then down to the string. 

WIDTH OF BACK— From center of the back to the armhole, let the 
lady swing her arm backward, then measure in the crease. 

CHEST — From the center of front, above the fullest part to the center of 
the back over the shoulder blade, to be taken tight. 

WAIST — Around the smaller part of the waist, tight. 

LENGTH OF FRONT— From the neck in front to the string at the 
waist 

TOP OF DART— Measure from the string up under the fullest part of 
the bust. 

BUST — From the fullest part of the bust to the center of back over the 
shoulder blade, quite loose. If the chest measures 18 and the bust 
19, mark in the book I inch. 

SLEEVE — By raising the arm in form of a square and measure from the 
center of the back to the elbow, by deducting the previous measure 
of the back you have the actual length of sleeve required. Next 
measure around the arm up high, also around the elbow. For the 
length, from elbow to wrist, add 9 inches for short and 10 inches for 
a long sleeve. 



- 4 




! 



— 5 — 

DIAGRAM No. 1. 



Place the square on the paper with the long arm towards you, and 
the short end about one inch from the top, then draw a line the length of 
the long arm and mark it A ; next draw a line by the short arm and mark 
it B, without moving the square ; dot on line A the length of back (see 
measure book). Drop the short arm of the square to this dot and draw 
the waist line by the short arm, then mark it C. 

Dot above line C, the under arm measure, and draw line D the 
length of the short arm, without moving the square dot on line D the 
width of back also one half of the chest measure. 

Take a waist scale, corresponding. in number with the actual waist 
measure, and place the scale on line C, with the cross on line A, then dot 
at No. 3. 

Dot 1-4 of an inch from No. 3, then place the cross on this dot and 
dot* at'No 5. Dot about 1 inch from No. 5 and place the cross on this dot 
and dot at No. 5 again. 

Dot under line F 1-4 of an inch. Next take pattern No. 1 and place 
lines D and E ove* D and E on the draft, then curve from o to 1, then 
from 2 to 3 and from 3 down to the 1-4 inch dot under F. 

Next dot at o, 1, 2 and 3. Take pattern No. 2 and place A and B 
on pattern at the point where A # and B join, then curve from line A to let- 
ter B for the neck. 

Take the square and draw a line for the shoulder from dot B to O on 
line E. 

Next place figure I on pattern No. 2, over dot 1 on draft, hold it 
tight at this place and move the bottom of pattern to dot No. 3 on the 
waist line, then curve for the back. 

Take pattern No.^3 and place 1-4 over the 1-4 dot on the waist line 
and curve from back of pattern to xx near line D ; next place figure 2 over 
dot 2 at the armhole and curve to figure 4 near line D. 

Place figure 3 over dot 3 at the armhole, with the bottom of the pat- 
tern at dot No. 5 on the waist line, then curve for the front of the side- 
body. 

Next .draw a straight line with the square from dot No. 3 at the arm- 
hole to the I inch dot on the waist line, also a straight line from the 1-4 
inch dot under line F to the remaining No. 5 dot on the waist line. 
For the skirts take pattern No. 4 and place the top even with line C, 
with the cross on pattern at line A, then curve for the back ; next move 
the pattern forward, with dot 3 even with dot 3 on the draft, then curve 
for the front of the skirt. 

Take pattern No. 5 and place the 1-4 dot at the 1-4 dot on draft and 
then curve for the back, for the front place figure 5 at dot 5 and curve. 

Take pattern No. 6 and place 1 inch on pattern, at the 1 inch dot on 
draft, then curve for the back,- move the pattern forward with figure 5 at 
dot 5 and curve for the front. 

For persons that have round shoulders add as indicated by the dotted 
line at the top of line A, 







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idi^o-ir^im: nsro. 2. 

To Commence the front draw lines A, B, C, D, E and F, using the 
same measures that made the back, also dot 1-4 inch under line F. Next 
take pattern No. I and place lines D and E over lines D and F and doc at 
the letter O, then dot half way between this dot and the line B, then dot 
halfway again between these two dots for the shoulder seam. Dot on 
line A from B 3 inches always for the neck. 

Take pattern No. 7 and place 6 1-2 dot at the 3 inch dot on line A, 
hold it fast at this point, but move the pattern until the dot at the three 
crosses is on line "B, then curve for the neck from the 3 inch dot up to 
the top of the pattern. [Note — For a small neck, dot at 6; medium, 
6 1-2 ; large, 7; extra large, 7 1-2. 

Place your finger over dot 10 on pattern and move the opposite cor 
ner to the middle dot on line F, then curve for the shoulder seam, now 
measure the shoulder of the back and dot for the shoulder of the front, 
making it 1-4 of an inch shorter than the back. 

To curve the armhole use pattern No. 7 by placing the sleeve notch 
where lines D and E join, with lineE on pattern over E on draft, ihen 
curve from the notch up to figure 12, place finger over 12 and move the 
pattern until the top edge rests or points to dot made for the length of 
shoulder, then finish the curve to that dot. 

To finish the armhole place the finger at the notch and move the pat- 
tern until it rests on the 1-4 inch dot under line F, then curve. 

Draw a straight line for the side seam from the 1-4 inch dot under 
line F'to line C, next measure the length of the side seam of the back 
and make the front the same length. It frequently comes under line C 
about 1-4 of an inch. Dot for the length of front from the 3 inch dot 
on line A to the length required. Take pattern No, 7 and curve for the 
waist line from 13 at the side seam over and through the dot on line A 
to the end of pattern. 

Dot from the waist line just made up on line A, the top of dart, 
and draw line G half way cross the pattern. Dot half way between line 
G and D and draw line H, dot on line H the Bust measure. 

To curve the front draw a line with the square from the 3 inch dot to 
the dot on line H, then continue down straight to the bottom of the pat- 
tern. After this, lines A and C ceases to be of any account in the draft. 
Take the waist scale and place it on the waist line with the cross on the 
front line and dot at No. 4. Reverse the scale and place the cross at the 
side seam, then dot at No. 7. 

Next place the pencil on the draft half way between the dots 4 and 7, 
then place No. I of the scale up to the pencil. Don't dot where the pen- 
cil is to the number one, but dot at the cross and No. 2. Draw a line 
from the center of each dart up to line G ; take pattern No. 1 and curve 
for the first dart up to line G; for the second dart curve in the same man- 
ner, only extend the dart 1-2 inch above line G. • 

For the skirt of the darts draw straight lines down from the dots of 
each dart and then curve as indicated in the diagram, The curves are 
about 1-4 of an inch, but for persons very full in front curve more. 

For the skirt of the side seam use No. 6, with the top even with line 
C. Curve the center of the front below the waist as indicated. 

Make a notch for the sleeve, measure the armhole all way round and 
mark the size on the front, then draft a sleeve to fit. 



Directions for Cutting and Basting. 



, 



Cut off all paper outside of back, side-body and under armgore; cu 
direct on the lines, also cut out the front in the same manner, with a notch 
for the sleeve. 

Place the whole front on lining with the edge, from 3 inch dot to line 
H, straight with the selvage, and allow about 1 1-2 inches for lap; place 
weights on top to keep from moving. Then trace accurately at the edge 
of the draft, including the darts. 

Cut out the lining, but allow for seams outside of all the tracings, 
with extra width on the shoulders and side seam. This makes all seams 
bias from the fullest part of the bust to the waist. 

To trace the back, place line A straight with the selvage, then trace 
line A, neck, shoulder and armhole,to the first dot, and then down througli 
dot 3 on the waist line to the bottom of the skirt, also trace the waist line, 
remove the draft and cut out the back, but allow for seams outside 
of tracing, with extra width on shoulder. 

Place the pattern on lining for side-body, with the waist line straight 
with the cross threads, then trace front and back of side-body, armhole, 
skirt and waist line. Remove the draft, cut out side-body, but allow for 
seams outside of tracing. 

For under-arm gore trace in the same manner, but allow an extra 
width for seam of front. 

To cut the outside material, lay the linings on the cloth and cut the 
same in size — front, back and under-arm gore. Baste the lining and out- 
side together, with one or two rows in the center of each, then baste on 
the tracings all way round. 

To baste the seams together, commence all seams at the top and baste 
down to the bottom of the skirt. It is not necessary to have, the waist 
lines meet. 

, In basting the shoulder seams, full the back the 1-4 inch allowed, and 
for very thin persons, full a half inch. 

Before basting the darts together cut them through the center. 

In basting the lap fold the goods one-quarter of an inch outside of 
the tracing, on the buttonhole side. The buttons and holes should be 
direct on the tracing, this is important. 



I 



Diagram No. 3. -Sleeve. 




If the armhole should measure 15 1-2 draft from the mode at 16, 

Commence on line A at 16 and dot at all the holes to letter B. For 
the under dot at 16 and continue to letter C. Next curve from B to D 
also dot at the holes from C to E. 

For the back seam dot from 16 to 16 at the elbow and then continue 
down to the wrist. Remove the mode and curve through all the dots. 

Refer to the measure book. If the back is 6 1-2 place 6 1-2 on the 
tape line at A and measure towards line B and dot for the elbow, then add 
9 inches for a short and 10 inches for a long arm. Refer to measure book 
for size around the arm, then increase or decrease the outside seam to the 
size required by measuring first the under and then the upper. See dot- 
ted lines marked D ; dot for the elbow in the same manner, then curve 
through these dots down to the wrist. A less troublesome way is to make 
the sleeve large around and then fit the back seam. When trying on never 
change the inside seam or sleeve head. 

Place line F straight with the lining and trace accurately at the edge 
of pattern and allow seams in all places outside of the tracing. 

Stitch the upper, when it is marked with xxxx, until it becomes the 
same length of the under. 

To baste, commence at the top and baste down even. 

To baste the sleeve in, fasten the under seam to the notch in front 
and the back seam to the coat seam of the back. For the under part, 
commence at the back and base even halfway, then gather the remaining, 
if the sleeve is larger. For the upper, baste even to the shoulder seam, 
then commence in front and full slightly for two inches, then gather what- 
ever fulness is left. 



IO — 



<xlMISCELLANEOUS.t» 



The principle of this system is drafting from actual measures, except the waist line, 
which is accomplished by a set of graduated scales. 

The waist scales are printed on stout oil board, representing a series of scales, and 
for use the sheet must be cut into strips, each bearing its separate number. ! 

By making a scale holder they can be kept together with less liability of losing, and 
when drafting, the one desired can be selected in a moment by glancing at the figures on 
the end, which are numbered 20, 20£, 21, 21£, and so on. Thus the scale bearing the 
number 20 at the end is used in drafting a waist of that size, combining expediency and 
accuracy. 

The patterns are merely to trace the curves of the neck, armhole, back, side-body 
and skirts. 

For silk, use one-half inch larger scale, velvet one inch larger. 
To make the darts, pitch back at the top, slant the center line in that direction. 
To make the front dart smaller than the second, move the two numbers on the scale 
forward a little. 

In drafting a pattern, any size or style, 'there should always be 13 numbers of the 
scale on each draft. , 

For a person that is full in front below the waist, curve the darts, also the front, 
outwards. 

Great care should be observed in stitching the seams accurately, and the fitting 
should be arranged, to allow for stitching either on the outside or the inside of the 
basting. ',. -. 

Cut a notch in the front edge of the under-arm gore. It is hard to tell which is 
the froDt or back after the material is cut. 

All seams should be opened and the edges neatly overcasted. 

In cutting velvet, or goods that -are figured or have a nap or pile, be careful to 
cut all the parts the same way of the goods, that is, with the nap running downward, 
and figure or pile of velvet running upward or downward, whichever is preferred. 
Velvets with the pile running upward have a much nicer appearance than running in the 
opposite direction. In cutting stripes or plaids for the back be sure they match, and 
use special care that the side-body and back correspond. This can always be accom- 
plished by moving the goods a little one way or the other. 

Striped material, cut bias in the back, has a tendency to make the waist appear 
smaller, also the same effect in front at the waist. 

To make a loose house dress or sacque, draft in the same manner as for tight- 
fitting waist, excepting at the waist-line, use one inch larger scale for a medium ; to 
make it very loose, use two inches larger, and so on. In making an outside, tight- 



— II — 

fitting jacket, draft the same, only use a half inch larger scale, and instead of tracing, 
mark the outline with chalk, that will make sufficiently loose to fit over a dress. 

To eradicate the dart, seams extending half way down the skirts of wrappers, etc., 
pin up the dart in the lining about one-half; then place on the outside material smooth, 
and in basting the darts together, they will be full size on the lining only, and the 
seams will extend only six inches or so below the waist in the outside material. 

Buy manilla paper, twenty pounds weight, 24x36 in size. 

If any of the following defects appear in the dresses when fitting, try to remedy 
the cause in your second dress by altering the figures in the measure book. 

Always take a short measure for length of back, as it is easier to make longer. If 
the dress is not high enough under the arm, it will interfere in raising the arm when the 
sleeve is in. 

If the waist measure is taken too loose, the dress will be loose all round, and up to 
the arm. 

Always take the armhole measure in even inches, 14, 15, 16, and so on. 

Always commence to pin or button at the waist. 

Persons with a large waist and small bust must have small curves on the darts. 

The width for the bottom of the skirts are sufficient in size except for large bustles, 
in that case spring the skirt at the back or both back and side-body. If long skirts are 
necessary extend the lines on the same angle as drafted. 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

inn 

013 964 915 1 1 



